Marionettes and Matching Face Masks at Milan Fashion Week

In New York, fashion was swept off the streets of Manhattan to the Spring Studios rooftop in TriBeCa and far-flung Connecticut lawns, while in London designers like Molly Goddard, Roksanda Ilinčić, and Victoria Beckham dived indoors to art galleries and Gasholders penthouses for appointment shows and virtual presentations, as Burberry and Erdem took to the English countryside to escape the capital smog.

Milan Fashion Week then sought some semblance of normality, with more models on runways and matching face masks elevated to an audience participation event. Street style, a pillar of fashion week just as much as celebrity spotting and the clothes themselves, even made a full-figured comeback.

Fendi and Dolce & Gabbana kicked off the action in front of small socially distanced crowds. Silvia Fendi, in her last show as the brand’s sole designer before Kim Jones takes charge of womenswear, invited guests via monogrammed pasta and her grandmother’s lemon pesto recipe, before unveiling a show rich in scenery, featuring picnic hampers and paper-thin linens printed with blue skies and billowing trees. Dolce & Gabbana layered georgette and chiffon to style out a ‘patchwork of Sicily’.

Back in February, Lombardy was emerging as the epicentre of the growing coronavirus pandemic, as Giorgio Armani pulled the curtain in front of an empty theatre and the fashion world hightailed it from Milan to Paris. In one of fashion’s last flings before the reality of lockdowns and loungewear, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons sat in plush green armchairs in the Fondazione Prada to announce an unprecedented collaboration.

The fruits of an inevitably compromised first effort were on display in Milan. Clutch coats, full skirts, and satin shift dresses emblazoned with evocative prints adorned a cast of first-time catwalk models, in a show screened virtually via Prada.com. Prada and Simons lingered afterwards to elaborate on their ‘conversation in progress’ by way of a crowd-sourced interview.

Hugo Boss decamped for Milan with languorous tailoring in shades of green and pastel blue, Versace took a deep dive underwater with crumbling columns and employees in the front row, and Tomo Koizumi designed a capsule collection for Emilio Pucci, whose coral ruffle dresses were available by appointment only.

With Moschino populated by marionettes while Giorgio Armani and Maison Margiela opted for digital presentations, it was left to Valentino to close the show. Pierpaolo Piccioli presented his collection in the old industrial space of Fonderie Macchi, where lacework, ruffled blouses, and chiffon dresses butted up against studded bags, short shorts, and tunics to give the brand’s fabled luxury a contemporary utilitarian sheen.

Nomadland Leads the Early Oscar Running After Taking Top Prize in Toronto

Fresh-faced and bleary-eyed following its recent outing in Venice, Nomadland doubled up to take the top prize at the Toronto International Film Festival. Claiming the People’s Choice Award in a year which mostly made do with online streaming, Chloé Zhao and Frances McDormand’s itinerant journey through the American Midwest is leading the running in early Oscars contention.

One Night in Miami, the directorial debut of Regina King, finished runner-up in Toronto. A fictionalised account of a real-life meeting between Cassius Clay, Malcolm X, soul singer Sam Cooke, and star running back Jim Brown on the night of Clay’s world title victory over Sonny Liston, the film is adapted from the stage play by Kemp Powers, and made King the first female African-American director in the history of the Venice Film Festival.

Inconvenient Indian, a history of the indigenous peoples of Canada by Michelle Latimer, won the documentary award, while the Georgian-French drama Beginning by Déa Kulumbegashvili won a single FIPRESCI Prize, voted on by international critics.

That marked the start of a big week for Kulumbegashvili, as Beginning also triumphed at the 68th San Sebastián Film Festival, which concluded on Saturday. The psychological portrait of extremism within a community of Jehovah’s Witnesses picked up Best Screenplay, Best Director, and Best Actress as well as the Golden Shell for Best Film.

Meanwhile critics kept their antennas tuned to the Big Apple, where the New York Film Festival will run over the course of the next two weeks. Already causing a stir was Mangrove, a retelling of police harassment among London’s Caribbean community in the 1970s, and the second picture in the Small Axe series by the acclaimed director Steve McQueen.

Sign o’ the Times by Prince Gets Remastered, Deluxe, and Super-Deluxe Editions

To rave reviews and glowing recollections, Friday saw the release of remastered, deluxe, and super deluxe editions of the seminal Prince album Sign o’ the Times. From the calamity-cleft funk minimalism of the title track and the sunburst sweeps of ‘Starfish and Coffee’ to the slow-build spiritualism of ‘The Cross’ and soul devotional ‘Adore’, on Sign o’ the Times the artist was at his most fertile, creatively unfettered as he surveyed his surrounds.

Sign o’ the Times was already a double album, which on release stretched across 80 minutes and four sides. The super deluxe package now spans nine discs, adding all of the contemporary single edits and B-sides plus 45 previously unreleased studio tracks and live performances from Utrecht and Paisley Park.

One of the most critically acclaimed albums of 1987, storming the annual Village Voice Pazz & Jop poll with Robert Christgau describing ‘the most gifted pop musician of his generation proving what a motherfucker he is for two discs start to finish’, today Sign o’ the Times is frequently regarded among the greatest of all albums. There’s never been a better moment for a really deep dive.

The Arctic Sea Ice Shrinks to the Second-Lowest Level on Record

On Monday, scientists at the National Snow and Ice Data Center at the University of Colorado Boulder reported that the Arctic sea ice has shrank to the second-lowest level on record. Satellites recorded a sea ice covering of 3.74 million square kilometres on 15 September, which is only the second time in the past forty years that the ice covering has dropped below 4 million square kilometres.

The record low within the past forty years of record keeping came in 2012, when a late-season cyclonic storm broke up an already depleted layer of ice, leaving only 3.41 million square kilometres. This year’s decline hastened between late August and early September, owing to pulses of warm air from Siberia, which has been in the throes of an unprecedented heatwave.

In July the small town of Verkhoyansk in the Sakha Republic reached a temperature of 38 degrees Celsius (100.4 degrees Fahrenheit), a new record high for the Arctic region. Wildfires raged across Siberia during the summer months, releasing record levels of carbon dioxide as they burned up carbon-rich peatlands. An international team of scientists subsequently concluded that the heatwave would have been ‘almost impossible’ without man-made climate change.

Developments in the Arctic, which is warming at twice the rate of the rest of the globe, cap another damaging year for the environment. 2020 will be one of the hottest years on record, while reduced emissions in the face of the coronavirus pandemic have failed to halt record levels of atmospheric carbon dioxide. Devastating fire seasons in Australia, California, and the Pantanal region of South America, flooding across Asia, and a major oil spill near Norilsk have destroyed homes, contaminated our air and water, and ravaged animal habitats.

The Living Planet Report 2020 showed that global animal populations declined by an average of 68 percent between 1970 and 2016. Hoping to draw attention to some of these issues – citing burning continents, melting glaciers, and dying coral reefs – on Thursday David Attenborough joined Instagram, besting Jennifer Aniston and setting a new record by reaching 1 million followers in just 4 hours and 44 minutes.

Juliette Gréco, Doyenne of the French Chanson, Dies at 93

Juliette Gréco, doyenne of the French chanson, died on Wednesday at the age of 93 years old. Once described by Jean-Paul Sartre as carrying ‘a million poems in her voice’, the tributes were led by French president Emmanuel Macron, who wrote that ‘The muse of Saint-Germain-des-Prés is immortal’.

Born in Montpellier and raised by her maternal grandparents in Bordeaux, Gréco trained as a ballerina at the Opéra Garnier in Paris prior to the outbreak of the Second World War. Tied to the Resistance, she was arrested by the Gestapo while her mother and older sister were deported to Ravensbrück concentration camp, liberated by the Red Army as the war drew to a close.

Gréco became a familiar face in the cafés and clubs of postwar Paris, a thriving cultural milieu shaped by the existentialism of Sartre, Albert Camus, and Simone de Beauvoir, styled in slender black to a soundtrack of smoky jazz. The Left Bank served as a haven for artists as diverse as Samuel Beckett, Pablo Picasso, and James Baldwin, while Gréco would enter into long-term relationships with Miles Davis and the film producer Darryl F. Zanuck. At clubs like Le Tabou and La Rose Rouge she made the acquaintance of Jean Cocteau, making her major motion picture debut with Orpheus in 1950.

At the same time Gréco took to the stage, performing at the reopening of the renowned cabaret Le Bœuf sur le toit. To lyrics by Sartre, Raymond Queneau, and Jacques Prévert and the compositions of Joseph Kosma, she became a celebrated songstress, scoring success with ‘Si tu t’imagines’ and ‘Je suis comme je suis’ then ‘Les feuilles mortes’ and ‘Sous le ciel de Paris’, which became standards.

Starring roles in films by Jean-Pierre Melville and Jean Renoir were followed by parts in Hollywood pictures and British-American productions. Sought out by Mel Ferrer, it was on the set of The Sun Also Rises that she first met Zanuck, and she played in The Roots of Heaven by John Huston and Bonjour Tristesse by Otto Preminger, before starring alongside Orson Welles in Crack in the Mirror.

Performances at the Olympia in Paris and on tours to the United States and Brazil had made Gréco the face of the chanson. From the late 50s, under the auspices of the composer André Popp, she recorded classic renditions of songs by Jacques Brel, Léo Ferré, and a young Serge Gainsbourg. Between continuing forays on television and film, she had hits with ‘La Javanaise’ and ‘Déshabillez-moi’ and won critical acclaim for the albums Gréco chante Mac Orlan and La Femme.

In the 1970s, Gréco embarked on a series of world tours, switched record labels at the end of a long partnership with Philips, and tried her hand at songwriting. Sporadic recordings in the 80s and 90s were followed by a fully-fledged comeback and a series of albums in the 2000s. In 2012, Gréco celebrated with a new record and television specials in France on the occasion of her 85th birthday. She was promoted to commandeur of the Légion d’honneur.

A source of inspiration for philosophers, fellow artists, and the songwriters who wrote songs in her name, framed against the shadows of the stage with her long dark hair and black attire, Gréco maintained a spare approach to her craft, reciting the title of each song and performing with poetic flair and a husky voice out of the stillness.

In 2015 she spanned the globe, conducting a ‘Merci’ farewell tour. The following year she suffered a stroke and the death of her daughter. Gréco was married three times, to the actor Philippe Lemaire, the actor Michel Piccoli, and the pianist Gérard Jouannest, who died in 2018. In an interview with Télérama magazine in July, she spoke of her love of singing, saying ‘I miss it terribly. My reason for living is to sing! To sing is everything’.

Marvin Gaye Tops the New Rolling Stone List of the 500 Greatest Albums of All Time

From the erudite Village Voice and scuzzier Creem to the underground stylings of Spin and faded indie sensibility of Pitchfork, Rolling Stone has always distinguished itself from its music competitors through a steady commitment to mainstream rock and roll.

The times however are a-changing. Rap is the new rock and roll, and it’s been like that for a minute, while a generation of female visionaries – producers and songwriters from Björk, Beyoncé, and M.I.A. to Taylor Swift, Solange, and Grimes – have upended traditional categories and hold old constructs in their thrall. In the digital age moss is perilous, which is why the magazine this week updated its list of the greatest ever records.

The Rolling Stone list of the 500 Greatest Albums of All Time was originally published in 2003, and again in 2012 with minor revisions. The 60s and 70s dominated proceedings, with eleven albums by Bob Dylan, and ten by The Beatles and The Rolling Stones. Highway 61 Revisited by Dylan and Pet Sounds by The Beach Boys made up a top five boyishly captivated by The Beatles, with Rubber Soul and Revolver making way for Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band at number one.

The original list was short on women, with Joni Mitchell the highest ranking solo female artist at number thirty. Madonna was the only woman with as many as three featuring albums, while hip hop hegemony shifted from 2003 to 2012 between the socially conscious Public Enemy and a soul-sampling Kanye West.

The new list by Rolling Stone is the product of more than 300 artists, producers, critics, and music industry figures, from Beyoncé and Billie Eilish to H.E.R. and Tierra Whack. Collectively they shifted the balance in terms of genre and gender, with a greater focus on rap, R&B, and soul music, and a generational fondness for the 90s in addition to a contemporary understanding of the 2000s and 2010s.

The Beatles, Bob Dylan, and Neil Young still predominate, but with six albums Kanye West is now on par with The Rolling Stones. Aretha Franklin and Joni Mitchell can boast four albums apiece, while the diversity of artists on three albums includes the sonic explorations of Janet Jackson and Fiona Apple, slacker rock from Pavement, and rap luminaries from Beastie Boys and Outkast to Jay-Z and Kendrick Lamar.

The Beatles hold on to a spot in the top five thanks to Abbey Road, with Songs in the Key of Life by Stevie Wonder, Blue by Joni Mitchell, and Pet Sounds by The Beach Boys offering an evocative prelude to a new champion, Marvin Gaye’s weary but hopeful, environmentally conscious song cycle What’s Going On.

Trash Can Fires and Hazmat Suits at the 72nd Primetime Emmys

Replete with hazmat suits and disinfectant, featuring celebrity reunions, essential workers, and calls to get out the vote, the 72nd Primetime Emmy Awards veered from the sublime to the ridiculous as they took place mostly virtually from Staples Center on Sunday night. Which is to say that the Canadian family comedy Schitt’s Creek seemed sublime then ridiculous as the assorted cast, socially distanced at an event space in Toronto, opened the show by swallowing up all the comedy awards.

Casting a covetous glance, Emmy and Schitt’s Creek only had eyes for each other as the small-town sitcom swept the comedy circuit. Showrunner Dan Levy became the first person to win in all four major disciplines, clasping the awards for Outstanding Supporting Actor in a Comedy Series, Outstanding Writing for a Comedy Series, and Outstanding Directing for a Comedy Series alongside Andrew Cividino, while heading up the cast and crew as the show was named Outstanding Comedy Series for 2020.

Eugene Levy, Catherine O’Hara, and Annie Murphy in the remaining acting categories completed the set. There was more diversity in the genres of drama and limited series, where Succession and Watchmen heralded a fine night for HBO, claiming the top prizes while picking up four awards apiece. Regina King (Watchmen) and Mark Ruffalo (I Know This Much Is True) took home the lead acting awards for their respective limited series, leaving Zendaya (Euphoria) and Jeremy Strong (Succession) as their dramatic counterparts.

Billy Crudup (The Morning Show), Julia Garner (Ozark), Yahya Abdul-Mateen II (Watchmen), and Uzo Aduba (Mrs. America) triumphed for their supporting roles. Andrij Parekh won Outstanding Directing for a Drama Series for the ‘Hunting’ episode of Succession, while Maria Schrader won Outstanding Directing for a Limited Series for the German-American drama Unorthodox, the first Netflix series primarily in Yiddish.

Jimmy Kimmel returned to host the 72nd Primetime Emmy Awards, in front of a crowd of cardboard cutouts with Jason Bateman crashing the set. Jennifer Aniston was on hand to put out fires before racing home for a partial Friends reunion, Tracee Ellis Ross provided some Hollywood glamour, and Anthony Anderson bemoaned the fact that a big year for Black nominees coincided with a coronavirus-induced shutout. Mostly though the guests stayed home, giving us glimpses of the family life and quarantine habits of Zendaya, Mindy Kaling, and Bob Newhart.

Ruth Bader Ginsburg, Supreme Court Justice, Dies at the Age of 87

Ruth Bader Ginsburg, associate justice of the Supreme Court and feminist icon, who attained rock star status late in life for her withering dissents as leader of the liberal wing of the court, died on Friday at the age of 87. Her death from complications of metastatic pancreatic cancer sets up a fierce battle over the future of the court as the United States races towards a presidential election.

Born in Brooklyn to Jewish parents hailing from Kraków and Odessa, Joan Ruth Bader suffered the loss of an older sister in infancy and her mother, Celia, the day before her high school graduation, subsequently attending Cornell University where she graduated with a bachelor of arts in government.

At Cornell she met Martin Ginsburg, who she married one month after graduation, demoted from her job at the Social Security office in Oklahoma when she became pregnant with the couple’s first child. Ginsburg then enrolled at Harvard Law School, where she was one of only nine women in a class of hundreds, transferring to Columbia where she tied for first in class when she graduated in 1959 with a law degree.

At the discretion of her former professors, Ginsburg served a two year clerkship for Judge Edmund Palmieri of the Southern District of New York, before returning to Columbia. She learned Swedish and visited Lund University as co-author of a comparative study on civil procedure, and in 1963 took her first position as professor at Rutgers Law School. In 1970, Ginsburg co-headed the Women’s Rights Law Reporter, the first law journal in the United States which focused exclusively on women’s rights, and in 1972 she became the first director of the Women’s Rights Project at the American Civil Liberties Union.

Under the auspices of the ACLU, Ginsburg argued a series of gender discrimination cases before the Supreme Court, sometimes targeting male plaintiffs to highlight the diverse and encompassing inequalities which existed between men and women.

She filed briefs in the landmark cases Reed v. Reed, which ruled that administrators of estates cannot be named in a way that discriminates based on sex; Frontiero v. Richardson, which ruled that the United States military cannot issue benefits based on sex; and Craig v. Boren, which challenged an Oklahoma statute setting a higher legal drinking age for men, for the first time making statutory classifications based on sex subject to intermediate scrutiny under the Equal Protection Clause of the Fourteenth Amendment.

At the same time Ginsburg took up a professorship at Columbia, where she became the first tenured woman. In 1980 as the federal judiciary was expanded under President Carter, Ginsburg was appointed to the United States Court of Appeals for the District of Columbia Circuit.

It was her reputation as a moderate consensus builder in the District of Columbia, working alongside colleagues like Antonin Scalia and Robert Bork, which made her a winning choice for the Supreme Court under President Clinton in 1993: in fact among the small number of dissenting voices were abortion activists, angered by a speech Ginsburg had made earlier that year which suggested a narrower scope in the decision Roe v. Wade might have spared twenty years of growing division. Expressing her support for abortion and equal rights while deferring on other constitutional matters, Ginsburg was confirmed by a vote of 96 to 3, becoming the second female and first Jewish justice.

Ginsburg wrote the majority opinion in the landmark case United States v. Virginia in 1996, which struck down the male-only admissions policy of the Virginia Military Institute. The period 1994 to 2005 saw the same nine judges serve, the longest stretch in Supreme Court history, but by 2006 the court had shifted once more to the right. As the senior Democratic appointee, Ginsburg became known for her dissenting opinions.

Ledbetter v. Goodyear Tire & Rubber Co. in 2007 ruled that under Title VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, pay discrimination claims must be made within 180 days of an employer’s discriminatory conduct, in this case from the date of the plaintiff Lilly Ledbetter’s first unequal paycheck. Objecting that the statutory 180-day period should only begin once a claimant becomes aware of the discrimination, Ginsburg called on Congress to clarify Title VII. The Lilly Ledbetter Fair Play Act of 2009, which resets the statutory clock upon each new discriminatory paycheck, became the first bill signed into law by President Obama.

A further dissent came over Shelby County v. Holder in 2013, which declared unconstitutional the section of the Voting Rights Act of 1965 requiring states to receive federal approval before changing voting practises. Ginsburg responded, ‘Throwing out preclearance when it has worked and is continuing to work to stop discriminatory changes is like throwing away your umbrella in a rainstorm because you are not getting wet’.

One of her favourite decisions remained M.L.B. v. S.L.J., which ruled that an inability to pay court fees should not limit the right of appeal in parental rights cases, while she lamented her decision in City of Sherrill v. Oneida Indian Nation of New York which denied tribal sovereignty to repurchased tribal lands, making partial amends earlier this year when she joined the majority for McGirt v. Oklahoma.

Ginsburg was diagnosed with colon cancer in 1999, but rebounded with the help of a personal trainer and never missed a day on the bench. She again underwent surgery, this time for pancreatic cancer, in 2009. By 2014 when she received a coronary stent to clear a blocked artery, some pundits were questioning whether she should make way for a Democratic replacement. By 2018 when she fell and fractured three ribs, hailed as a bastion of liberalism amid the rightward tilt of the Trump administration, support poured in for the popularly characterised Notorious R.B.G.

A CT scan of her ribs showed the early stages of lung cancer, and Ginsburg underwent surgery hours before casting a decisive vote blocking an executive ban on asylum. Pancreatic cancer returned in the summer of 2019 and again earlier this year. The death of Ruth Bader Ginsburg was swiftly embroiled in matters of congressional ethics and talk of potential successors, as tributes were paid to an outstanding legacy on the grounds of the Supreme Court and across the political aisle.

Amid Pandemic Strains, New York Fashion Week Ascends the Spring Studios Rooftop

With unprecedented introspection threatening to turn more than the clothes inside out, New York Fashion Week heralded the start of a new season. Fewer eyeballs would turn towards fewer designers and fewer bodies draped and distended in space, with much of the week composed virtually as fashion strains to fit inside the new normal.

At the end of February designers, models, celebrities and assorted hangers-on hotfooted from Milan to Paris just as Lombardy found itself in the first throes of coronavirus. In Milan, Giorgio Armani brought down the curtain in front of an empty theatre, but Paris remained du monde even as face masks were increasingly de rigueur. What followed was a fallow period, as global lockdowns gave fashion time to reflect on some longstanding issues: sustainability, excess travel, and industry churn as the demands of runway shows and department stores throw seasons out of whack, leaving an unseemly trail of fraying and frazzled designers.

Alessandro Michele announced that Gucci would reduce its number of annual shows from five to two, joined by brands like Saint Laurent equally keen to reset the clock and foster a little breathing space amid the hectic fashion calendar. The summer months collided menswear with haute couture or took conspicuous steps towards gender-neutral, as weeks in London and Paris went digital with virtual shows, podcasts, interviews, and panel discussions, cinematic shorts, and celebrity collaborations.

Not quite business as usual then heading into New York, for the first major showcase of spring/summer collections. With most designers opting for digital presentations, there were no celebrities adorning front rows and no street style fashionistas. Even the major names in American fashion were missing out, from Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, and Michael Kors to Oscar de la Renta, Tory Burch, and Proenza Schouler, while the CFDA set up the Runway360 platform to capture the virtual stragglers. But a few hardy souls still strove valiantly to present their wares in person, taking to the Spring Studios rooftop in TriBeCa.

It was there that Jason Wu, a favourite designer of Michelle Obama, opened New York Fashion Week, with caftans, tailored shorts, and loose-fitting slacks, light jazz and a tropical setting. Harlem’s Fashion Row kicked off the online presentations with a celebratory event upon the theme ‘Black Is the New Black’, featuring celebrity stylists and haberdashers like Jason Rembert and Dapper Dan, with designs from Kimberly Goldson, Richfresh, and Kristian Lorén.

Amid rapid tests and masks, New York City-based Monse ascended the Spring Studios rooftop for a cocktail party replete with leftover fall coats and tantalising resort wear. Bronx and Banco, Rebecca Minkoff, and LaQuan Smith also scaled the perilous heights of in-person presentation for shows featuring boho-chic, head wraps, and cut-out dresses.

Striped essentials brand La Ligne made their fashion week debut by way of a poetry reading with the Lower Eastside Girls Club at La Plaza Cultural. And while Tom Ford showed a lookbook full of florals and animal print, Christian Siriano brought frivolity to his Connecticut lawn, with a show that climaxed with a pool dive from a pregnant Coco Rocha.